Bit lengthy, sorry, but never know what background details might be helpful. This seems to have arisen after a dealer service, but I cannot see a (provable) direct connection, so no chance of getting a free fix. After unlocking with the Unlock button on the remote key fob, I have always been able to open the boot by squeezing the handle in the recess. That no longer works. The only way I can open the boot now is using the boot unlock button on the key fob. Something I've never had to do before. For a few days directly after a service and the annual MOT (and the diagnosis - but not repair - of a wet driver footwell, another story) I could do so, but with difficulty. With hindsight I wish I'd called the dealer at once instead of deciding to live with it. But a week later it became impossible. Needed stuff in the boot after long drive to a concert at an obscure location with my wife. So pretty stressful! I was merely briefly pressing the boot unlock button, just like I do with the two buttons I normally use, and it took me a call to the dealer to learn that it needs a 2 second press.) I thought it would be cured by spraying the locking mechanism on the boot lid with WD-40 the following morning, but no joy. Nor spraying the recessed handle innards, I also briefly wondered if perhaps it was a profile change in the car settings, but that all seems OK. And the solenoid activated by the remote opens the lock reliably. So I'm now fairly sure it must be a mechanical issue inside the recessed handle/lever unit. IOW, squeezing is not getting translated into the 'hook lifting' that the solenoid performs. Presumably that's by a flexible cable, not by activating the solenoid? I expected that the dealer wouldl quote a high charge for part and fitting. The rep didn't entertain my request to first access it to see if it was an easily fixed problem. (Automatic replacement rules!) So my question: has anyone been able to access the handle mechanism please? I'm no car DIYer (I'm always nervous about making things worse, and/or damaging the appearance), but given clear step-by-step guidance I'll tackle it methodically. Probably redundant, but here are a few photos:
I'd say a faulty connection or microswitch in the boot handle. There isn't a bowden cable for the boot like there is in the door handles.
Thanks, appreciate the fast reply. Your diagnosis sounds convincing. Any thoughts on how to get to it?
Thanks. Scary! "Especially "Destroy retaining tabs..." With no mention of how to then retain the unit it! But maybe it's just an unfortunate translation of 'Prise away from' ? The lower photo is easily recognisable. But not sure about those retaining tabs marked '2'. Presumably they're inside what I'm calling the 'boot unlocking unit" or similar, but which I think they've called the "button"?
(Thought I'd already successfully posted a reply, but apparently not so I'll reconstruct.) Thanks for the video link. I've learned from it, but even if it had an english narration and a steady camera my conclusion is that it's beyond my confidence level! I'm a keen electronics hobbyist, so I could probably fix it if someone handed me the unit and guaranteed to replace it, but... The quote from the BMW dealer was "about £320". So I'll either live with the inconvenience (and get myself a second key remote) or look around for a cheaper competitor within a reasonable distance of East Grinstead, West Sussex.
Tabs marked 2 will simply be retaining lugs, I’d suggest you could take them out without damaging them. Take some care with a plastic trim tool and you shouldn’t get the switch out. Good luck.
You're not far from BMR Performance based in Crawley. It's run by Barry and Ross, both ex BMW Senior Technicians. Could give them a call http://www.bmrperformance.co.uk/
Thanks, I’ll probably get a competitive quote.Although this seems a rather trivial task compared to their usual jobs, from reading the testimonials. Meanwhile I’ve found the second key fob that came with the car, changed the CR 2450 battery, and confirmed it works. So I’ll keep that in the glove box as backup.
Hi Terry. It is really common on some Fiat models for the microswitch to fail, officially the part has to be ordered as an entire tailgate handle assembly, although some owners have managed to bodge in a new switch instead of spending a fortune. Some just resign themselves to holding the button on the fob forever instead. Not sure I'd leave a spare key inside the car myself though.
Thanks Simon. Yes, I’ve had second thoughts about leaving my extra remote inside the car. The most obvious issue is that, if I’ve lost or mislaid the regular remote, how to get in! I’m thinking now of removing the metal ‘key’ from the spare remote and keeping that in a magnetic, waterproof case secreted under the car. Sensible? I know we’re now OT, but what measures do others take, if any?
The usual issue with the handle, especially if it’s gone to feel really loose, is that it relies on the the flex in the plastic to pivot and press the switch which over time weakens and breaks. A new handle with be easy to diy fit.
Not sensible iko, I wouldn't consider hiding a key anywhere in or under the car. Don't think your insurance company would look favourably on that either. The best thing is to get the boot switch fixed, it really isn't hard to prise out using a plastic trim tool, that's how it's designed to be removed.
Agreed! Still rather nervous about doing it myself, and would still probably need new microswitch, so booked in for Friday at BMR Performance, as Adie recommended. They agree the very likely diagnosis and should only be a matter of replacing the relatively inexpensive microswitch.
Duly fixed by BMR Performance. £50 v £320 quote by Vines of Gatwick. Thanks for the recommendation, Adie, and for all help here in diagnosing the problem.
That's exactly what had happened. New part was £21 plus £29 labour, £50 total v £320 quote by Vines of Gatwick. After seeing how quickly they removed it, yes, I could have done it myself, albeit more slowly. I'd probably have spent longer ordering and getting the part too. So I'm happy.