Spacers, any experience?

The current factory standard wheel set up has been bugging me for a while now. Both the rear and front wheels sit back in the arch too much for my eye.
I’ve been looking at spacers, nothing massive, probably 12mm rear and 10mm front, and have seen that there are good and bad versions of these.
I understand that there will be a change of suspension set up, moving the weight further out will change the response and probably alignment. But are there any other issues I’d need to look at? Anyone with experience of fitting these?
Hub centric seems the way to go.

 

I run spacers with my winter alloys/tyre combi because of the wheel offset. Iirc they're 12mm but they're tucked away at the moment and difficult to measure.

Never had any problems.

 

My son runs Bimecc spacers on his M135i and if IRC 10mm front, 12mm rear.

When I put them on I cleaned the hubs well along with a smear of copper slip, so they don’t get stuck.

Just remember to buy decent quality ones that come with a locking bolt.


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I hope you mean on the 'spigot only', not any lubricant on the clamping faces. Clamping faces require friction to carry the loads and torque. Even more important with spacers, to keep the integrity of the clamping forces.

Peter

 

Don't forget to get longer wheel bolts.

 

The better quality, and more expensive, versions come with the relevant new bolts and locking bolt.
After further reading I think I need to measure the distance between the outer edge of the tyre and the arch to see what gap is there, from this I can work out the spacer depth.

 

Has your son noticed any change in handling/feel at speed etc?
The Bimecc ones seem to be well regarded, have been looking at those.

 

Slightly more planted due to the wider track.

He did it mainly for looks though.


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Just realised I will need to try out my trolley jack on this car, it only just fitted under the E92, I may order these and not be able to fit them!

 

I had to buy a low profile jack for that very reason.



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Been out to check. My drive has a slope up and then relatively flat at the top, however, there still seems to be some undulation where the car is parked.
I can get the jack under the jacking pad on the OS rear, but all the others are a few mm out.

 

I had to cut a couple of pieces of floorboard to make little ramps to drive on to give more clearance for my jack. This also allowed me to also use a board under the jack for protecting the block paving from force of the metal wheels.

 

Nice idea, great thinking!

I’ve just ordered a new Sealey one. The current jack is very very old, donated by my FIL, he had it for 20+ years, so probably about time I invested in a new one.

 

I would advise buying some hockey pucks too….you may find cheaper than these, but they fit properly in the jacking “box”




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Cheers, already ordered along with the jack. Having sen how mullered the plastic blocks get I thought these would be a good idea.

 

Well actually I did put it on the hub face and spacer face, on the basis that when it dries, it won’t be a very good lubricant. I have had wheels stuck on a couple of cars lately, so was trying to avoid that.

When I took a wheel off after a couple of months the copper slip had dried up.

I know wheel bolts are always dry…


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Have been to measure the current tyre position in relation to the exterior of the wheel arch, front and back. 15mm would take the tyre to the edge of the arch, I think this would be too much for the back and certainly for the front. 12mm rear and 10mm front is my current thinking.
I’ve seen photos of 20mm all round and they look plain daft, really don’t want that look!

 

I think I have a set of Bimtec spacers in the garage that you can have, but I’m in The Lakes at present, back tomorrow when I will check for you.

 

That would be grand if you can have a look when you get back.
I’ve put a set of Bimecc 10/12mm spacers in a basket, just not pressed to yet.

 

Will do