For about a year now I've been having a knocking or clunking sound coming intermittently from the front of the car. I perceived it as coming from the front left, wife however thought it sounded like the front right was making the noise. The track rods - both inner and outer were changed 2 years ago as one had seized and could not be adjusted. Last year in an effort to resolve the knocking I replaced the front drop links and the anti-roll bar D bushes as the parts don't cost much at all. This didn't cure the noise. The noise had been getting progressively worse over the last couple of months (even though it passed the MOT with no advisories ) so I decided that I would replace a few parts. Namely the front control arms, radius rods, top mounts and associated mounting hardware. My car is coming up to the big 200k mark so even though some of the parts may not have needed replacing, there will be a difference between a new part and one that's done that amount of miles. Also as the parts are OEM and acquired from Germany they were fairly cheap and while half the car is in bits it makes sense anyway Thanks to @Cotswold BMW and other sources I laid out all the bits ready for installation: I don't have too many photos of the job as I was in a rush to complete, in poor weather, while the wife was away. I had the generous offer of @a.s.uk 's garage but wasn't able to find a suitable time so ended up doing it on my driveway. My Clarke impact gun made it very easy to spin off the nuts at the steering knuckle, except the one below on the nearside control arm. I had to hold the bush with mole grips to stop it spinning. This is one of the shocks with a new top mount. I also replaced the rubber pads, all washers and even the paper gasket on top. One of the old top mounts was loose and wobbled a bit but the one on the left side was knackered beyond belief! With the spring compressed and the top mount free to move it made an awful noise when rotated, as if there was grit inside. Also it had a lot of play and I believe the ball bearings inside had worn badly, some grease was still present though but appeared to have solidified. The new mount by comparison had a nice smooth action when rotated. Not a very good photo but shows what it's like with the strut removed. TIS procedure states to remove the brake disk, caliper and cables before removing the steering knuckle (swivel bearing in TIS-speak) as one piece with the strut. However there is just enough room to maneouvre the strut out from under the wing without going through that rigmarole. The old control arms & torsion rods came out fairly easily (apart from the one nut mentioned earlier). I checked them for wear and there were a couple of cracks in the rubber part of the control arm bushing where it meets the subframe. Not enough to leak fluid but the cracks were there nonetheless. I could also wiggle the central part a lot easier than on the new arms so they had obviously worn but not failed. I had to balance the brake disc/hub assembly on an upturned bucket because when the arms/rods are removed there is nothing apart from the track rod end holding it together - it weighs a lot too, especially with the strut attached as well. So I had to have a cuppa while building up my strength to raise the whole lot back into position. Once I got the strut in I torque up the top mount bolts, then installed the arms/rods* taking care to load the suspension before torquing and angle tightening the control arm / torsion rod bolts in the subframe. This is essential so that the rubber bushing isn't damaged. *For anyone contemplating this it's easier to install the arm at the subframe first and then the balljoint at the steering knuckle. This shows the new control arm and torsion rod on the nearside. As a side job I had noticed my car down on power over the last couple of months. I suspected this was due to a leak at the intercooler, the whole area was covered in oil. The boost hose clip had failed and as a temporary fix I'd had to use a few hose clamps to clamp the hose to the intercooler. While the car was raised and underbody panel off I looked into the cause and decided to fix the leak once and for all. The intercooler is a Forge one and about twice the size (and weight) as the standard one, it turned out that the clip which holds the hose to the intercooler was only catching one of the notches on the hose where it meets. Also because this notch had worn it explained why the hose popped off when giving it some - up a hill! I also found the source of the boost leak resulting in reduced power Explains why there was a film of oil everywhere! With a replacement boost hose with unworn notches and new seal to hand I modified the clip (looks a bit like a circlip) and it now grips both notches securely so it won't blow off again: this is before I cleaned up the mess! The result of that weekend's job was a car with power restored, no oil leaking and more importantly no noise from the front! I annoyed the wife as she was hoping it was beyond repair so I'd get a new car. Why should I, the front is now very quiet, the suspension feels very tight and well planted. You turn the wheel and point the car in the direction you want to go In parts it's probably cost me about £350 - you'd only get an oil change and fuel and microfilter from BMW for that ;) Going to get an alignment done next week.